Sneak peek - sesame braid and more!

This is one delicious dough folks! First time around I did the sesame braid. Second time around I doubled the recipe and made two standard loaves - great for sandwiches and morning toast.

I have a couple additional versions up my sleeve and look forward to sharing them and the recipe with you in upcoming weeks. We’ve had some lovely Michigan summer days interspersed with heat and humidity so I’m planning my baking projects around the weather. Ahhh - summer.

Here’s a bit of nature for you - the light, the shadows - Steve says I could be an impressionist!

Summer whites - landscaped

Summer whites - natural

Teasel - intriguing to be sure!

Gateau Breton aux cerises et la crème de citron vert

Always looking for ways to use my favorite Breton dough, this one is a take on Gateau Basque, the classic butter cake from the Basque region in southern France/northern Spain. It’s typically baked with pastry cream and/or fruit (cherries, apricots, prunes are options) inside. It turns out that many regions of France have their own version of butter cake, Brittany being one of them, so I opted to use the Breton dough for this project. The Basque dough recipe I use from my Le Cordon Bleu days is indeed very similar to a gateau Breton so why not switch it up a bit.

Since it’s cherry season here in western Michigan and I had some lime juice in my freezer, I opted for a roasted sweet cherry/lime curd combo for my gateau.

For about a pound of pitted and halved Bing cherries, I sprinkled them with a couple tablespoons dark brown sugar, stirred ‘em up, spread them out on a silicone mat lined half sheet pan and gave them a low and slow roast in a 275ºF oven for about an hour or so, stirring them around every 10-15 minutes. I didn’t (forgot to!) do an after roasting final weight for the batch but I can tell you I used about 105 g intact cherry pieces for my 7” size gateau and pureed the remainder (yield a tad over 3/4 cup) to use in both a batch of Swiss meringue buttercream as well as a cherry chocolate ganache (more on that later).

Ooooh!

I had made a batch of lime curd (just sub lime juice for the lemon) the day before, using about 240 g for this gateau and freezing the rest for another as-yet-to-be-determined project. Hmmm - how about lime curd toasted coconut ice cream or lime curd Swiss meringue buttercream? We’ll just see about that.

I already had my Breton dough made as a result of a tart class I recently taught and figured out that a 7” cake pan would be perfect for the 515 g of dough I had on hand.

Let’s assemble this baby, eh? Start your oven heating to 350ºF.

Butter the bottom and sides of the pan well, line the bottom with a round of parchment and butter it too. Press 275 g of dough evenly into the bottom.

Next create a narrow rim to build up the edges using 60 g of dough.

Next pipe in or spread a layer of lime curd (about 190 g) over the bottom keeping it inside the rim.

Now nestle the cherries over that, leaving yourself a rim of curd uncovered by the fruit.

Dollop the remaining curd over the cherries.

Top with 180 g dough, sealing the edges. Remember this is pretty rustic so don’t fuss too much about it.

Lightly brush the top with egg wash or milk for a bit of sheen and some in-oven enhanced browning. With the tip of a paring knife create a cross hatch pattern (or whatever pattern you want) - I went for diamonds.

Bake at 350ºF for 20 minutes then decrease the temp to 325º and bake an additional 25-30 minutes. I rotate my pan about half way through. You’re looking for a nicely golden brown crust.

Remember every oven is different so use your judgement. It’s not easy to assess the interior of this kind of gateau but remember the curd and cherries have already been “cooked” as it were, so you don’t have to worry about a raw center. The cream/curd tends to kind of meld into the dough too.

Ooooh - that’s looks great!

Let it cool in the pan about 10 minutes then, using a small offset spatula, run it just inside the edge of the pan to loosen things. Hold an overturned cooling rack across the top of the pan, lift pan and rack together and flip ‘em over. You should be able to lift the pan right off the gateau.

Now flip it back right side up the same way. Et voilà!

Let it cool, slice and enjoy at room temperature with perhaps a dollop of crème Chantilly, some additional cherries if you have them and some toasted sliced almonds. We sampled it au naturel and gave it a thumbs up.

It stores covered in the fridge for several days. We enjoyed a small slice here and there with afternoon coffee or as a small after dinner treat. Not bad.

On a final note, check this out!! On my daily walks I occasionally swing through a nearby township park and discovered this interesting natural sculpture in the wooded edge. The first time I noticed it was last October right around Halloween - how cool! I call it the tree witch and thought you might like to see it.

Keep on keepin’ on folks. Enjoy summer - it’s not over yet!

Afternoon tea at Hôtel de Crillon

We’ve been back home in Michigan for a few weeks now, and I want to share one last adventure from our European travels. I’ve been mulling over how to describe this one since it didn’t quite live up to our expectations, particularly after the generally stellar teas we enjoyed in the UK in autumn of 2019. Well here goes!

We had planned to meet an old friend for afternoon tea while in Paris, and, after a bit of research, we settled on Hôtel de Crillon, a 5 star spot right on Place de la Concorde that reopened several years ago after undergoing a 4 year renovation. With all the hype and the reputation of the place we were pumped to experience it. I recall during my pastry school days that the hotel was a very sought after spot for students to snag their place as a stagiaire - a real feather-in-one’s-cap kind of deal on the pastry chef resumé.

There’s a lovely lounge area soon after entering with luscious purple flowers and cushiony seating, but we were slated for Le Jardin d’Hiver, an outdoor terrace/courtyard venue for lunch and afternoon tea which lacked much luster or natural beauty - some greenery here and there and otherwise a white theme. Perhaps some might consider it calming, although we thought it pretty tame after the interior sumptuousness.

Entry lounge area

We had a quiet corner where we could catch up on the last few years (6!!) since we had seen Diane. After a lot of chatting (and staff periodically milling about wondering when we might order) we finally put in our requests for tea (me), coffee (Steve) and hot chocolate (Diane) to accompany our tiered tea assortments.

Two classic French cookies, langues du chats and lunettes with raspberry jam, came next. I gave them a thumbs up - crispy and flavorful, just as lovely shortbread type cookies should be.

We each received our own tiered server and could choose EITHER brioche or scones (the EITHER made very clear by the wait staff) which came perched above the sweets and savories. Heaven forbid we could have chosen one of each. Diane and I chose the scone pair (plain and fig/cranberry) and Steve went with the brioche (vanilla cream and strawberry/rhubarb). Truth be told, he’s not a big scone fan and he ordered the brioche simply so I could try it. Isn’t he wonderful?

Scones and sweets

Let’s check out the savories - the menu included focaccia/grilled veggies/olive cream; lobster roll on brioche with lime; goat cheese and pea toast (English muffin like) with radish. We all agreed the pea toast took first place but felt the lobster roll lacked any level of pizazz and the focaccia was one dimensional.

Savories

Before moving on to the sweets, I sampled the fig/cranberry scone which was flavorful but more cake-like than the light, fluffy crumbly scones I prefer. I then stole one of Steve’s brioche (vanilla cream) and found it absolutely superb and what would in the end be my favorite for the day. A hidden stash of vanilla cream in the bottom was perfect with the buttery, light brioche and its crisp exterior. Alas the other brioche (strawberry rhubarb) went uneaten since Steve and Diane showed no interest and I had to save room for other things. Awwww.

Steve’s brioche

The sweets plate

The sweets offerings included a lovely fresh strawberry and orange blossom tart which was tasty indeed (save for the slightly less than crisply fresh crust). Can you imagine slicing and arranging those strawberries just so? It’s a lot of work believe you me.

We were disappointed in the rhubarb dill number - while the cream cheese mousse base was good, the rhubarb dill concoction simply didn’t do it for us.

The third sweet, milk chocolate mousse with pink grapefruit jelly, was odd and quite jiggly. Oh well, ya gotta try some new things right?

In the end it was more about chatting and enjoying each other’s company. The icing on the cake, as it were, was receiving the news through a message from Diane’s husband back home that the COVID testing requirement to get back into the USA had been lifted! She was slated to fly home the same day we were and all of us couldn’t have been happier with the news.

Now we’re back to life as usual, whatever that really means. Since being home, I’ve taught a summer tart class through our local school system and look ahead to occasional pastry activities on the horizon. We’re back in a very casual at home mode for the most part and wondering when all the turmoil around the world will wane. It’s anybody’s guess.

Meanwhile my annuals are potted up, I’m back to regular walks and swims and working on staying calm.

Enjoy summer!