Orange cake

One of my favorite baking books is “Genius Desserts” written by the FOOD52 folks. I’ve mentioned it on and off in recent years and highly recommend it. I had tagged this cake as one to try - it’s billed as “whole orange cake”, the recipe published years ago in Sunset magazine. From a quick internet search I discovered that Sunset was first published in 1898!! Guess what - it’s still being published and the recipe is on their website.

Not long after I had added it to my baking agenda, lo and behold, over the next week or two, it popped up in my life, seemingly by happenstance. First I came across the same recipe in the NYT and then heard about the experience of making it from a woman attending a baking demo I was giving at a nearby assisted living facility. Kismet I say.

I’ll admit that what really drew me to baking this was the swirly Nordic Ware pan that I’ve had my eye on for awhile now. I kept telling myself “Susan - you don’t need another pan”, but I ordered it anyway. In my defense, the well-worn traditional style bundt pan that I used to have so many years ago is long gone and I had no urge to replace it. After all, I tend to prefer petite teacakes - love those financiers! - rather than large slices.

Buuuuttt . . . . Nordic Ware has been producing some very cool designs over the years and this one caught my eye - so classy without being too ornate. Something about those swirls.

10 Cup Heritage Bundt

While there are some whole orange cake recipes out there that require boiling whole oranges, this one calls for 2 oranges (about a pound), ends cut off but otherwise left unpeeled, then chunked up, seeded and pulsed in a food processor to a somewhat coarse purée. You can do that part ahead and hold it in the fridge until ready to make the batter.

I’ll go through the steps and link you to the recipe here. It is readily available on a number of sites and is certainly not unique to me. Who knows the countless number of folks who have made and enjoyed this cake over the years! Oh! You might notice my navel and cara-cara oranges in the photo below - seemed like a good combo.

 

As you plan your project, the do-aheads are: butter and flour the pan (or use pan spray), purée the oranges (you’ll portion out 355 g / 1 1/2 cups for the batter and compost or dispose of the rest), have 3 large eggs at room temp and 227 g / 2 sticks unsalted butter at soft room temp. When ready to make the batter, mise out 250 g / 1 1/4 cups sugar, 320 g / 2 1/2 cups all purpose flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda and 1/4 teaspoon fine salt.

You’ll be glazing the cake after baking - whisk together 150 g / 1 1/2 cups confectioner’s sugar and 35 g fresh squeezed OJ. You can always do this during the bake.

Here’s how my purée looked - remember I used a combo of navel and cara-cara.

 

Heat the oven to 325ºF. Cream the butter and sugar for 3-5 minutes until lightened and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, blending each fully before adding the next. Blend in the orange purée. Looked a bit like orange cottage cheese.

Hmmmm . . . . interesting look

Add flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and blend until incorporated and smooth.

Everything blended!

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Ready to bake

Bake about 55 minutes - you want a golden top, firm to the touch and a tester with just a few crumbs clinging. Let cool in the pan about 10 minutes then turn out onto a grid over a pan and cool completely.

One note here - I made sure to butter and flour all the crevices thoroughly even though the pan is billed as non-stick. This cake released from the pan beautifully. One of the frustrations I used to have with the old bundt-form pan I had years ago (a lighter weight knock off) was getting the cake out of the pan without leaving some pieces here and there. Grrrrr . . . . but not any more!

Hmmm . . . maybe I should do a test without buttering the pan - makes me nervous but gotta try it.

 

Spoon and brush the glaze over the top, into the crevices. I prefer my glaze on the thinner side - gauge the way you like it by starting with less OJ to confectioner’s sugar for a thicker consistency or add additional OJ or even a bit of water for a thinner glaze. Once glazed I pop it back into the oven for 3 minutes or so to set the glaze.

All glazed up

Delicious, moist and tender with just the right amount of orange flavor and a hint of sweetness - a perfect balance.

 

Steve and I enjoyed a slice with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream and some strawberries. Yum. A slice with morning coffee was good too, and the remaining slices went into the freezer for future enjoyment. Yes I would make this again.

 

I’ll be back with you as the weeks go by. Enjoy!

Paris

Paris - the name says it all. Many of us have been put under it’s spell. We often ask ourselves “what is it about this place?” The answer often eludes us, but we know how we feel when we’re there.

When we travel, we like to think of it as BEING in a place. It’s not a vacation but an adventure in learning and experiencing what that place has to offer. How does day to day living compare to what we’re used to at home? Appreciating the social fabric, how the locals spend their time, eat, work, relax, and relate to each other. That’s what Paris has become for us - it draws us back. Sure it has issues as all places do - homelessness, strife, inequality, citizens wanting change - but there’s a feeling that’s indescribable.

If nothing else, it’s a feast for the eyes and the soul. From histoire to les musées to les monuments to les fleurs, les jardins and les marchés to les arts en general; to the food, les bistros et brasseries, les pâtisseries et boulangeries; to exploring and finally to the simple act of being flaneurs - strolling down previously undiscovered streets, stopping at a café for a coffee or a glass of wine and some people watching.

Strolling in Le Jardin des Plantes

Tulips - Le Jardin des Plantes

I’m writing this after our return to Grand Rapids. It’s good to be back home in a familiar space and the regularity of day to day life.

Steve and I had an interesting reaction as we arrived in Paris this time. We knew, of course, that we were only going to be there for three full days, but, after many nights in hotels, eating out all the time (other than our short stay with friends Richard and Pauline), not having much room in our hotel lodgings to feel like we could relax, sit, enjoy - the minute we arrived at the AirBnB we had rented, we felt like we were home.

The first night’s sky

Paris at this time of year brings beautiful fresh fraises which we took advantage of for our breakfasts in the apartment - yogurt, fresh berries, fresh brewed coffee, toast with delicious French beurre et fromage, le jus d’orange. So good.

Seasonal fruit - les fraises sont arrivées!

Believe it or not, we didn’t enter even one pâtisserie or boulangerie this time around. We certainly enjoyed some window viewing (lèche-vitrine) with so many tasty looking goodies on display, but our primary indulgence came on our first afternoon out and about.

We decided to treat ourselves to a favorite spot on Place Des Vosges. Carette is an elegant cafè that has been around a long time, serving brunch/lunch, afternoon tea/coffee, hot chocolate, pastries, cakes and more. Outdoor seating is available under the portico but we opted to sit inside.

I ordered le fraisier, the classic sponge/mousseline/strawberry layered number that’s so popular during spring. It’s one of the recipes I learned/made during the basic pastry course at Le Cordon Bleu oh those many years ago.

Steve, being a sucker for anything made with choux paste, chose a classic èclair au chocolat. Our coffees were accompanied by a tasty shortbread cookie - right up my alley!

The spread

Fraisier

Not feeling at all rushed to do/see things on this short visit, we enjoyed leisurely mornings and spending afternoons with old (and new!) friends.

We happened to be in Paris over the May Day (1 May - Labor Day)) holiday when many are out enjoying a day off, hanging out in street-side cafés et bistros, handing out bouquets of muguet des bois (lily of the valley) or strolling in the cemeteries. Demonstrations and marches are also de riguer with the focus on workers rights.

Back in 2006 during my pastry schooling days, Steve spent a lot of time in Paris’ cemeteries, photographing and blogging about his discoveries. Marie, a native French teacher-of-English living and working in Paris, contacted him through his blog and they became die hard buddies through their mutual interest and fascination of all things cemetery (particularly Parisian ones!). We met up with Marie at Pére Lachaise, enjoying lunch at a nearby café followed by wandering the avenues et chemins past so much sculpture, history, greenery and flowers - spring had sprung!

photo courtesy of Steve Soper

Strolling in Pére Lachaise - photo courtesy of Steve Soper

Photo courtesy of Steve Soper

The following day we had an agenda. First (after some morning relaxation) - a visit to my favorite store carrying a vast array of baking and pastry needs - Mora. I had a few things in mind such as piping tips and silicone molds that would be easy to pack. Mission accomplished!

Ready to shop! Photo courtesy of Steve Soper

We then sidled over to nearby Detou, another foodie shopping destination full of ingredients the likes of chocolates, nuts, flours, dried fruits, pastes, vanilla and SO much more. And all at much better prices than we might find at home. We did succumb to purchasing a bag of toasted Marcona almonds and one of cashews “for the road”. I would have liked an extra small suitcase to fill with almond and pistachio flours, whole raw pistachios and hazelnuts, Valrhona chocolates and on and on. . . . .

We lost track of time and had to hurry over via metro and by foot to meet up with Jill, that new friend I mentioned earlier. For a bit of back story - some time ago I came upon a blog entitled “Paris Breakfasts” written by American watercolorist Carol Gillott. Through her blog I learned about Jill Colonna, author of the blog “Mad About Macarons” (as well as the book of the same name) and the book “Teatime in Paris”. I subscribed to Jill’s monthly newsletter, enjoying her recipes and her take on what’s going on in Paris, both seasonally and in general.

Jill is Scottish, married to a Corsican Frenchman, living in Paris and very connected to the food world in general. We had emailed a bit back and forth and by luck we were able to find a window of time that we might meet in person. We met in the Marais at Mariage Frères for pots of Earl Grey tea and lively conversation. Cool.

At Mariage frères

Our next stop - Les Antiquaires, a bistro just down the street from Musée d’Orsay where we had 6 pm timed tickets to see the currently running Impressionist exhibition. Again by luck, we found a time window to meet up with friend Val from my LCB pastry school days. Val was my classmate during the basic pastry part of the program and was my savior in the translation department. Having lived and worked in Las Vegas for 5 years some time ago, she speaks English like an American. Thanks Val!

Steve and VAl

And so our Paris time came to an end. Flights home went smoothly and we’re working our way back into some sort of daily rhythm. My walks offer such calm. I leave you with some favorites along the walking path.

Lilacs

Viburnum

Beautiful irises

Happy baking! Until next time.

Desserts in Bordeaux and a bit beyond

 

Warning! Lots of dessert talk coming up. Trust me, I rarely eat dessert at home.

After spending 10 days in Catalonia, off to Bordeaux we went to meet up with our British friends Richard and Pauline. From the pastry standpoint, canelés are the iconic Bordelaise treat and the company Baillardran the most recognized name for these caramelized mini flans.

I make canelés on occasion and am thinking it’s time to do that again, particularly after tasting them in Bordeaux. Here’s a post I wrote on them quite awhile back. On this trip I learned from our French friend Marie (who attended university in Bordeaux) that one can choose canelés on a scale of 1 to 3: 1 being less baked/lighter in color and thus a less caramel-y, crispy exterior and 3 being most baked with a darker caramel crust of sorts. The interiors will be more soft and custardy with 1 and less so with 3. Get it? This was also confirmed by French friend Valerie who prefers the darker caramelized exterior. To each her own.

I had no idea that canelés are used to create more elaborate desserts. But why not, eh? Below are three different versions of ostensibly the same canelé profiterole dessert experienced at three different eateries - quite a contrast I think.

The first was for Steve and Richard at our hotel - an interesting approach with canelés split in half, topped with ice cream and accompanied by Chantilly and chocolate sauce. They enjoyed it. I wondered about calling them profiteroles . . . when in Rome.

First night’s version

The next evening at Le Bistro de Musée Richard and Steve opted for a similar dessert, this one more polished, with a more professional presentation and tasty to boot.

Second night’s version

I however made the mistake (retrospectively) of ordering a similarly described dessert the following evening at Chai Maestro which in my estimation was over the top portion wise. Fortunately Richard was there to finish what I could not.

Third night’s version

My favorite dessert in Bordeaux was at Le Bistro de Musée. I first experienced a Café Gourmand in Belgium during a trip to visit niece Christina and her family in Lille, France in 2016. Curiously enough, we met up with Richard and Pauline on that trip as well, visiting some of the WWI battlefields in Belgium and northern France.

Cafe gourmand at Markt 38 in Poperinge Belgium, 2016

On another visit to Lille in spring of 2018, we dined with Glen and Christina at a lovely restaurant in the city. Christina and I enjoyed delicious strawberry-pistachio tartelettes served with a vin jaune sorbet. Glen went with the café gourmand - a very broad selection of petite treats.

Café gourmand in Lille, spring 2018

The café gourmand I had in Bordeaux was on a smaller scale than many - right up my alley. Crème brulée (one of my faves), panna cotta/raspberry sauce and a moist apple cake. Perfect!

Café gourmand in Bordeaux, 2024

Training from Bordeaux to Agen and then by car to R&P’s home in Mouchan (near Condom in the Gers département de Gascogne), we spent a couple of days enjoying and appreciating their hospitality. Our visit was short but lovely after spending many nights in hotels.

We happened to be there on a Sunday, a day when many French enjoy a proper Sunday lunch out. We went to an auberge/chambre d’hôte out in the beautiful Gascon countryside where we were presented with the formule for the day. Water/wine already at the table, aperitif, amuse bouche, three courses (starter, plat principal and dessert), coffee and digestif all included (all for 31 euros, about $33). The food - absolutely scrumptious with a depth of flavor hard to be beat. It left us well satisfied without feeling stuffed to the gills.

Here’s where I made an interesting decision. Since I typically don’t order dessert (and rarely eat it at home), I spent a little time debating about ordering one at all. I went for the assiette gourmand, described to me by the staff as small (note I said small) portions of each of the five desserts on the menu. I love tasting, what can I say!

The image below shows you what I was faced with. As an aside, I noted that our table received some interesting looks from other diners (and even the staff) when the dessert was delivered as if to say “is she really going to eat all of that?”.

Ice cream and Chantilly cream played a large role in this assortment, as you can see below. From the left going clockwise: crêpe de noisette wrapped around ice cream, topped with chocolate sauce; apple croustade (my portion seemed to be from a corner of the pan without too much apple); profiterole (ahem - more ice cream); gratinée framboise - custard topped with raspberries and a sprinkle of sugar then run under the broiler. In the center - ice cream, rum sauce, Chantilly cream and some crunchy bits.

Whoa! Are you serious?

Yes, I did taste each one, preferring the gratinée and the apple crostade in terms of textures and flavors. Custard, fruit, flaky pastry - you bet. And yes, I did leave a fair amount on the plate (Richard didn’t even finish it off)! I’ll be more thoughtful if faced with the same decision in the future. Live and learn.

Country side near the Auberge (photo courtesy of Steve Soper)

Up next - Paris!

Pastries and more in Catalonia

Girona specialty - custard filled sugar buns

Hi! I’m writing this during our travel adventure to France and Spain. After flying to Paris and staying for a night, we hopped on the high speed train and headed to Catalonia.

For more details on our trip, check out Steve’s blog too!

We have never visited this part of the world, and I must admit I didn’t quite know what to expect. Not only have we found ancient cathedrals, Roman ruins, the gorgeous aquas and deep blues of the Mediterranean, but plenty of friendly folk ready to help and explain new things. Beautiful flora too!

 

Our first stop - Girona (about 6.5 hours from Paris by high speed train).

As usual, I/we seek out the local pastries to experience their flavor, texture and uniqueness. In the parts of Europe we’ve enjoyed over the years, we always find the classics like croissants, pain au chocolat, tortes, sablés, choux puffs, turnovers and more. Let’s not forget that the bases of pastry are pretty much the same in many parts of the world. The differences exist in how a particular town/region/country decides to create their own versions.

One of the perks of our lodgings - breakfast included!! I’ll tell you European breakfasts are the best! Tables laden with bread, meats, cheeses, eggs, yogurt, fresh fruit, juices, cereals, granola, an array of pastries and readily available coffee choices the likes of latte, cappuccino, espresso and variations thereof.

Just one part of the breakfast at Hotel Ultonia in Girona

We soon learned about the Girona specialty xuixo (shu-sho) - a custard filled laminated pastry that reminded us of one of our favorite treats in Florence years ago - bomboloni. Similar to what some know as a Berliner or Bismarck or the Jewish sufganiyah or sufganiyot, think yeast raised dough, light and airy, quickly fried and sugar coated, filled with custard or jam/jelly.

Xuixo

I fondly recall childhood memories of eating a similar treat from our small west Michigan town’s bakery. Some of our favorites were what we referred to as jelly donuts along with glazed loaves of raisin bread, lemon filled “sticks”, lovely sweet bun type dough in a long rectangle with lemon filling down the center. Although my tastes have changed over the years, leaning away from overly sweet stuff, an occasional reminder of some of these long ago treats isn’t all bad.

We spent time in Girona, Tarragona and Barcelona and found similar treats at our breakfast buffets. After some “healthy” starters such as whole grain bread, egg, cheese, granola and/or yogurt with fruit, I usually treated myself to a trio of petite goodies, varying my choices each time. Of course these had to be accompanied by the requisite cappuccino.

Girona: raisin swirl, apple cake, chocolate croissant

Tarragona’s lodgings had an even more extensive spread than Girona’s, offering a revolving number of choices for our three breakfasts there.

As an aside, we did lots of walking this trip which justified a bit of indulgence here and there.

Tarragona pastry offerings

This particular morning I sampled walnut braided pastry, palmier and coconut tarte.

Coconut tarte, walnut braid, palmier

Another involved a generous slice of apple torte which I found too sweet and opted not to eat the whole thing. A moist slice of marble cake and a simple, plain sweet bun pastry (referred to as ensaïmada) dusted with powder sugar rounded out the trio.

A quick internet search told me that ensaïmada is a light, airy yeasted bun traditionally from Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain. It’s made as a typical sweet bun might be with bread flour, water, sugar, egg and yeast but uses pork lard as opposed to butter (which you can substitute if you prefer). It involves a short poolish type preferment, a first bulk rise that can be done in the fridge overnight for flavor enhancement and ease of shaping the following day. Maybe I’ll try it.

Apple torte, marble cake, ensaïmada

So as not to bore you with pastry photos, here are a few images from Tarragona, a beautiful seaside town southwest of Barcelona.

Inside the large indoor market, Mercat Central

Typical hot climate vegetation

Dipping my toes into the mediterranean

From Tarragona we traveled to Barcelona for the end of our Spanish adventure. We enjoyed a number of sites, some tasty (and not so tasty) food and nothing too unique in the pastry world after Girona and Tarragona. We took advantage of a metro pass which got us on busses as well. A modern, well designed, clean and user friendly system. Gotta love it.

View of barcelona’s harbor and the Med

Orange trees abound

Lavender - ahhh the aroma

You’ll think this odd perhaps but one of the most satisfying things in Barcelona was doing laundry! We discovered a small laundromat right around the corner from our hotel, all automated, instructions well signed and easy to operate - didn’t even have to put detergent in - it was dispensed automatically. It held three washers, three dryers, well timed and efficient. Total cost 7 euros, total time about 55 minutes.

Sometimes its the day to day stuff that can lift us up on a dreary, rainy day.

A laundromat from heaven

Coming up - Bordeaux and Paris tidbits.